Some Perspectives from the States

by John Neely

Back from Brazil almost a week, I thought I’d get a few final thoughts out before they’re gone. On coming back to the States, naturally felt a bit of culture shock on feeling and seeing what a cushy existence we have in the US, compared to fairly widespread poverty, though not starvation level, in the Amazon (there is always fish from the rivers). We mostly spent time with the upper 10% of Brazilian society (Rotarians), who by American standards would be middle class—nice but not extravagant houses or condo apartments, with jobs, good food and leisure time.

Most Brazilians in the Amazon survive at or just above subsistence level, with low paying jobs (lucky few) with larger companies or the government, small street businesses, selling anything from clothing to food to hardware, the parking mafia, fishing/agriculture, and prostitution. Make shift housing of cheap bricks or wood, mostly on the periphery of towns, was constantly cropping up. Squatters would take over any vacant land, cut down trees and built a shanty; soon churches and stores and futebal fields would appear, and the land owner would be helpless to remove them (this was happening to Uniron University in Porto Velho, just across from campus). What kind of real estate agents sell these houses? Legal title must be near impossible.

Street life and public areas can be somewhat depressing for foreigners, given piles of uncollected trash, strong odors of no telling what, open sewers and poorly maintained sidewalks/streets and parks. Within the larger cities, the high rise condo apartmento building continued its spread to even higher levels—highest in Belem was a new 40 story twin tower. With a doorman for security, walled courtyard, and pool/party area, this model is irresistible for folks with money.

But then there are the warm and friendly Brazilians: easy going, always ready for a chat, close knit extended families, love of music and drinking the afternoon or evening away (mas uma caipirinha, por favor). Late for a meeting or event? Museo not open today?--nao problema, let’s just chat or enjoy the street scene, or change plans. This attitude drove more than one American team member crazy (no names), but others got with the Brazilian approach to things (did we have a choice?).

The Zona Franca (free trade zone—no customs) of Manaus and our tour of the aluminum processing plants near Belem gave us a chance to see the north of Brazil changing cultures. In Rio Branco and Porto Velho, working Brazilians tend to go home for the traditional large lunch and soneca, or nap, before returning to work about 3:00 until about 7. The work pace seems slow and sporatic. Our Rotarians in Manaus, in contrast, worked in factories or businesses with more modern work schedules—short breaks for lunch then back to meeting production quotas. Not much putting off until manha.

Even at the hydroelectric plant near Porto Velho, work ethics as well as work skills were being taught at the Uniron University skills training center, by a German firm (Odebrecht) building the dam. And in Belem, the massive bauxite to aluminio plant, with 3,000 employees, clearly had output foremost in mind, as workers in uniforms broke at the same time for lunch and machines kept production going.. No wonder we met so many people from Sao Paulo in the north, with their diligence, skill and know how seizing opportunities in a land of abundant resources.

Suggestions to Improve Future IGEs

This is primarily for Rotarians in District 4720, but probably applies to 6920 and other Districts as well. Overall, I believe the team felt that Rio Branco had their act together the best, primarily because the outgoing team leader (Carlos Junior) and all four team members live there. Porto Velho was reasonably organized, led by the efforts of Fernando Prado, whose family (non-Rotarians) housed, fed and transported us, and Fernando had lead a previous IGE team to the US. The Manaus experience was positive, though driving distances between host family houses was tough—up to 2-3 hours per day in the car for some of us. Though Rotarians and families (Edinaldo, Ronaldo, Vera/Ronald and Geraldo) were friendly and fun in Belem, our visit was obviously put together at the last minute, and Jenny and Alison were housed too far away in the suburbs. Apparently the Belem folks learned they were to host the Americans only 2 weeks before, at the District Conference. The team was also very tired by
the time we got to Belem. Specific suggestions:

1. Consider doing 3 weeks for IGE, not 4—team was tired and ready to go home by the end.
2. Appoint an IGE coordinator for each city at least 2 months before the visit; each city coordinator should have a planning committee of 3-4 Rotarians; by 30 days before the IGE visit, identify in writing the host families and draft a tentative schedule of activities, including professional day visits; District Governor needs to delegate these duties through a District IGE Coordinator, but monitor to make sure it’s being done.
3. Host families should live fairly close to each other, to minimize transportation time for team members; center cities are best, assuming there are places where team members can walk/explore on their own in spare time; avoid unsafe neighborhoods.
4. When possible, separate team members in individual homes, to encourage them to speak the language, and have their own special host family experience (women on team stayed together in every city).
5. Host families with children or young people are generally preferred, to give team members a better understanding of family life.
6. Allow one free day per week, for unplanned time for team members, to spend time with host family, exploring on their own, or getting together without Brazilians (to talk over any team issues).
7. Team members generally like to visit night clubs/bars at night, so identify younger folks to take them out on occasion; make arrangements for late night entry into host family homes.
8. Formally structure relevant professional days in each city, asking team members ahead of time (when possible—email, at District Conference) what would be most interesting.
9. Minimize time team spends listening to speeches at the District Conference; language barrier was too much for some; structure alternate plans.

Lessons for future team members? Be flexible (flexibilidade) and go with the flow; focus on the positives, and don’t let issues of uncomfortable housing, food or even physical concerns get you down. And learn as much Portuguese as possible before you go—the experience is much richer and fuller when you can communicate (I believe the Brazilians were impressed by how much we did know, and it certainly helped Alton achieve his goals.)

Lasting memories? Clearly the people in each city: For me, Rio Branco: Fred and his family Magna, 16 year old Joao Paulo (I expect he’ll figure a way to study in the states) and little Maria Fernanda, Fred’s nephews Ricardo and Rodrigo, the modern real estate developers (incorporadoras), and big hearted Coelho, and his sons Talis and Tasio; Porto Velho: Fernando Prado, his 3 sisters (Rita, Paula, and Claudia) who hosted team members, and Fernando Fernandes, the Indy car driver, Dr. Benedicto and his charming linguist wife, and Vitor and his girlfriend, who was perfectly happy to see Jenny leave town; Manaus: Katia, her mother and their various other family members and “secretary” Nilian, the non Japanese speaking Japanese Gerson, his family and Paolo, Fabio and his opinionated uncle Fernando at the bicycle/moto factory (“Debeers diamonds pays the Brazilian government to keep Indians on their reservation over the richest site for diamonds outside South Africa”, uncle explains), Flavio, Jose Roberto, Airton the ladies man, Fabio Rafael, the port property developer (we may do a deal) and our faithful
driver Edinaldo; Belem: Ronaldo, his wife Raimunda, father-in-law Severino, Edinaldo (Edgy), Geraldo, the future District Governor, Nabih the Lebanese, Ronald the American and is ex-GD wifeVera.

Ate a proxima vez, gente boa!